I
made it through Mother’s Day, but I had to leave town to do so. This is because
from the late 1990s through last year, Mother’s Day almost always has meant
dinner by Brandon. It began when he and his friend Steve rented a house
together not long after their college graduations. Together they decided to
create a special Mother’s Day dinner for Steve’s mother and me, and this annual
feast became a tradition. Other family members – mothers and otherwise – were
welcome, so there was usually a good crowd and the crowd always included
Brandon’s Golden Retriever, Lex, and Steve’s White Shepherd, Rommel, two of the
gentlest giants ever.
That
first Mother’s Day feast centered on their amazing fish tacos and some other
dishes that weren’t quite ready to serve with the main course as they'd planned. Although our
gracious chefs learned timing after several
years of Mother’s Day dinners, taste was never an
issue. I cannot think of even one dish that did not meet the “delicious”
standard. They experimented and often introduced us to a food none had ever
tried before or to a medley of flavors that may have been good individually but
were divine together.
The
taste experience that represents these Mother’s Day meal memories for me is Brandon’s
tuna tartare. It was one of his “early” years’ concoctions, and I reluctantly
tried this raw tuna appetizer. “But Mom,” he said, “It’s sushi-grade Ahi. Trust
me. You’ll love it!” And love it I did. It became THE annual special request.
Whatever else may be on the menu was left to our chefs, except for Brandon’s
tuna tartare appetizer. It remained my special request year after year.
Life
changes and so do traditions. Young men in their mid- to late-twenties marry or
take jobs that lead to change. Still, Brandon cooked on Mother’s
Day when he was free. And still, I requested his tuna tartare for any Mother’s Day when he served as chef!
Last
year, 2012, was no different. Brandon had big plans for Mother’s Day dinner,
since it would be his wife Christina’s first Mother’s Day. As usual, my one
request was for his tuna tartare. However, as he became noticeably sicker, I
suggested toning down the feast. It would be enough for all of us to be
together, especially once we learned his brothers were coming for the weekend
from out of town (New Jersey and Illinois). I suggested throwing a salad
together while his dad grilled burgers and brats, but that was not good enough
for Brandon.
“Mom,
you know Mother’s Day is my thing,” he replied. “I’ll be fine.”
He
turned down a Mother’s Day matinee of The
Avengers, which his brothers were taking me to see, so he’d have enough
energy to prepare the dinner. The dinner party that evening was comprised of
his two sisters and two brothers, a couple of his sibs-in-law, his grandparents
(my parents), a brother-in-law’s parents, and his nephew Konrad and nieces
Karenna and Alice, in addition to Christina, his baby daughter Morgan, his dad
and myself. What a grand celebration it was!
Brandon preparing his Tuna Tartare on Mother's Day 2012 |
When it came to the kitchen, Brandon
did nothing half way. He went all out. I savored his tuna
tartare last Mother's Day. Not only was the taste exquisite, but I knew in my heart (if not my head) I might never experience his version again. Later that evening we all exclaimed over the rack of lamb, and the sublime sauce he’d created to
accompany it, but I think we were mostly exclaiming over his determination to create a special Mother's Day that none of us will ever forget.
I
scoured the Internet for a tuna tartare recipe to include with this blog. None of the recipes I
found could compare with Brandon’s version. His recipe combined minced Ahi tuna
with some lemon juice, and I think capers were involved somehow. There were
spices that drew out the flavor of the tuna. The tuna mix was spooned over
roasted baguette slices and garnished with crisp curls of something or other, which
provided a bit of crunch and coolness. Perhaps he has the recipe written down,
but I’m not sure how helpful it would be. One of the joys of watching Brandon
cook was in observing the innovation. As with most really good cooks, nothing
was ever quite the same twice.
There
was no tuna tartare this Mother’s Day 2013. It was not a year of old traditions
nor was it a year for beginning new ones. This Mother’s Day’s round of
activities is not one to be repeated year after year. However, it diverted my
attention to the lack of Brandon and to the lack of his special tuna tartare appetizer, which epitomizes for me Mother's Day as "his thing." It was
exactly what I needed to do, where I needed to be, and who I needed to be with this
year. Whatever comes next, comes next and must take care of itself.
Oh my Karen --- this has me in tears for sure... for all the meals my sons gift me with and I so get the missing of it all -- the entire package -- the boy/the son, and the gift of food. It is hard for me to bear the sadness of you missing it all and yes, there really is no way to carve out a new tradition that can measure up. It is simply gone, along with him and the delicious memory remains in your heart and in your taste buds. At least my Gregory, was too young to cook! But, don't I relish every second of every time my sons and I are together... I know, believe me, I know.
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